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Fitting Campagnolo Ergo levers can be tricky but this guide should go some way towards demystifying the process. We covered indexing derailleur adjustments earlier this year, so. Combined, these two guides should keep you out of trouble when tackling this project. The new Ergo levers present a few challenges that didn’t crop up on last year’s models, so we’ll focus primarily on the small details and idiosyncrasies.
In addition, it’s useful to know that Campag levers are now in their third incarnation, so we’ll refer to the new ones as mark IIIs, last year’s models as mark IIs and the originals as mark Is. Remember to hand over the reins to a professional mechanic if you’re in any doubt about the end result, especially for the brakes or when joining the chain. Tools required. Sharp cutters and needle nose pliers. Flat and Phillips screwdrivers. 5mm Allen and T25 Torx keys. A sharp poking device.
Oil and grease. Electrical tape or stout duct tape. Sharp medium file. Torque wrench with T25 Torx socket (optional).
1: 1 Peel back the hoods We’ll assume that your derailleur and chain are correctly installed already. Before sliding the levers onto the bars, you’ll need to peel back the rubber hoods to gain access to the T25 Torx nut that tightens the clamp. Be careful – they’re easy to rip and expensive to replace.
A number of rubber nibs hold everything in place, so make sure to prise them out carefully before peeling the hood back using a spoke head or small hooking device. They need to be pulled back far enough from the front and rear to gain access to the soft and vulnerable alloy Torx nut. The older mark II hoods are mercifully easier to deal with and require only a 5mm Allen key, but go easy on them anyway. 3: 2 Position levers evenly Now use either a tape measure or a ruler to ensure even positioning of the levers.
Release enough clamp tension to allow the lever body to slide easily past any sharp bends in bars. Don’t force it if it gets stuck, because the inner edges can crack. You might have to completely unscrew the clamp, particularly on bars with multiple anatomic bends.
Make sure the T25 key is fully inserted; a heavy coating of factory threadlock makes clamp nut removal a challenge, but stick with it. The newest levers come with a shim for longer reach and bigger hands; place this between the bar and lever body before final positioning.
It’s unlikely these will see much use, though, since the normal reach is considerable. 4: 3 Tighten correctly Tighten the bolt finger-tight in order to allow some movement of the lever.
Straddle the bike and get everything even. Ensure the levers are high enough to benefit from a comfortable hood position created by a flat transition from the bar to the tops.
The lever body is shaped to fit at the most acute bar section. If you position it over the broader portion of the bend lower down, where the bar radius is too large, the composite body can be damaged when tightened. Using a torque wrench, if you have one, torque to about 10Nm. Alternatively, tighten with your Torx key to the point where the levers can’t be moved using your full body weight – ensure your bars are firmly clamped when you try this, though. 5: 4 Thread cables Inserting the cable into the lever body can present a few challenges, one of which is deciding how to get the cable through the body and into the outer without leaving a kink, which could affect the indexing performance. This wasn’t a problem on the mark II 10-speed Ergos, where the outer nestles further into the body and provides a change of direction for the inner as it leaves the wind-up plate/actuator. On the new 11-speeds, pull the cable down as near to its leading end as possible (as pictured); any kinks left in the cable can then be trimmed off when finishing.
All irregularities or kinks put into the inner when threading it through will adversely affect shifting accuracy. 2: 5 Beware of the O-ring This little o-ring (pictured) is lightly pressed into the lever body and can become dislodged when you’re pushing the cable through. Download software k tel food dehydrator manual kn - 128d. It’s an important friction-reducing element, but one that’s easily lost if the tip of the cable catches its edge while you’re working. Also, watch out for the pale yellow Teflon insert in the previous step; it’s irreplaceable, so don’t let it fall out of the body and disappear between the floorboards. Route cables with either both at the front, or the brake at the front and gear at the back. No ferrules are required going into the mark III body.
Mark IIs do require them, but don’t try jamming a 5mm brake ferrule into the 4mm gear opening.
I upgraded my old 9 Speed Mirage Shifters with a new set of the Veloce 10 Speed Ultra Shift levers. Installed levers, set up cables, housings and when I try to adjust the derailleurs. I get zero action from the levers when up/down shifting, the derailleur cables (front and rear) do not move at all. Not even a slight tug, no movement.
Don't know what I fear more, that the shifters are bunk or I totally missed something so basic and will most certainly get an earful on this forum. Not my first time installing shifters, I installed and set up the Mirage shifters I just shelved for these with zero issues. I triple checked to make sure I have the cable routed correctly, and I just can't think of what else to do for such a basic issue? Anyone have any ideas, trying to beat sundown to get a ride still! I upgraded my old 9 Speed Mirage Shifters with a new set of the Veloce 10 Speed Ultra Shift levers. Installed levers, set up cables, housings and when I try to adjust the derailleurs.
I get zero action from the levers when up/down shifting, the derailleur cables (front and rear) do not move at all. Not even a slight tug, no movement. Don't know what I fear more, that the shifters are bunk or I totally missed something so basic and will most certainly get an earful on this forum. Not my first time installing shifters, I installed and set up the Mirage shifters I just shelved for these with zero issues.
I triple checked to make sure I have the cable routed correctly, and I just can't think of what else to do for such a basic issue? Anyone have any ideas, trying to beat sundown to get a ride still! Thank you.When you yank on the cables by hand, do the derailleurs move?
Network Cable Installation
If so, then they are probably fine. When you actuate the shifters, is there any change in cable tension? If so, the shifters are probably fine. You just need to check the cable routing again. If the last one resulted in no change in cable tension, you must have inserted the cable through the wrong channels. Push the thumb buttons to make sure it is all the way to the smallest setting, then check which way you inserted the cable again.
I bet there is a Campagnolo video for this on YouTube. Thank Orange, yes, I can pull the cable by hand to create tension and the deraileurs move fine. When I actuate the shifters, no change in tension. And no video on YouTube that I could find, lots on rebuilding shifters, but nothing on inserting the cable. I mean, this is pretty basic. Which is why I'm feeling pretty dumb. I did notice that on the right shifter (front) the cable end seem to not go all the way inside, but sat there right close to the opening.
The cable end on the left shifter goes up in there so I can't see it. But, neither side is working so. I'm going to start again and see if I can't find out if its the routing. I sense that you may not have the cables threaded through the right way in the shifters. By pulling back the cover a little and looking at the cable end you should see it seated. If not I'd suggest removing a cable and try again. In both cases the thumb shifter should be at the end of it's travel when inserting the cable.
Do you have the instructions? Just checked the instructions and they are not great. And I've never done it in the way suggested either.
I've always pulled the cover back, poked the cable through, then inserted the end in the housing and seated the housing. Thank Orange, yes, I can pull the cable by hand to create tension and the deraileurs move fine.
When I actuate the shifters, no change in tension. And no video on YouTube that I could find, lots on rebuilding shifters, but nothing on inserting the cable.
Underground Cable Installation
I mean, this is pretty basic. Which is why I'm feeling pretty dumb. I did notice that on the right shifter (front) the cable end seem to not go all the way inside, but sat there right close to the opening. The cable end on the left shifter goes up in there so I can't see it. But, neither side is working so. I'm going to start again and see if I can't find out if its the routing. You put the cable into the wrong hole.
Wrong hole was my first thought. Unfortunately the included instruction book is less than descriptive in showing where the hole is. No other hole really works. My mirage were different all together in this respect. I can pull the hood back to see where the cable comes out and into the guide that takes the cable to the housing, but I can't see inside the body to see how it is seated. If I have the shifter actuated all the way to the smallest gear, I can't get the cable end all the way up, only if I have it shifted to the lowest gear.
And yes, I'm running full 10 speed. Ran 10 speed derailleurs with my 9 speed mirage shifters with excellent results for the last 2 years. My LBS said you have to be sure the cable end is seated correctly, but like mentioned, that is not visible.
Going to go try again.